This brilliant Indian designer continues to enthrall us with her use of material and out-of-the-box concepts. A true lover of all things fine and bespoke, Bina Goenka, opens up about her latest work in my latest story ‘The Perfect Mélange’ written for Solitaire Magazine‘s June -July issue. She also talks about the joining of Avanti, her daughter, in her business and how it has helped her expand to London and together they have been quite a team.
Indian jewellery designer Bina Goenka had a goal: to create an innovative and trustworthy address for jewellery. Today, her namesake brand, started a couple of decades ago, is one of Mumbai’s go- to jewellery labels.
“The Indian jewellery industry was chaotic 25 years ago when customers were often sold cheap goods packaged under the tag of a ‘good deal’,” shared Goenka. “As an ardent jewellery buyer myself with a background in jewellery production, I decided to change this scenario and make jewellery that are actually worth investing in.” With a keen and creative eye, Goenka decided to educate herself all about jewellery, and started delivering what customers wanted.
Goenka’s jewellery are for those with a refined taste for art. Her pieces often take you to a mystical world with their selection of gemstones and craftsmanship. Her combination of volume with flexibility and design with technique often results in masterful pieces.
Selling to the discerning investors of luxury, customisation makes up a big part of her production. Goenka travels the world to hunt for gemstones to teach design. Making her clients a party to the process, she is known to sharing with them the minutest details, from design to gem-sourcing to final production. “While gem hunting, I always know what I am looking for. There are times when one piece takes longer to manufacture, as we are still sourcing for the complete set of gemstones for it. We would not go into manufacturing until we have procured all the necessary materials”, adds Goenka. Each gemstone is then re-cut according to the design to fit the most complicated of mounts.
As an exclusive jewellery brand, Goenka says she sometimes gets order of 35 to 40 pieces of wedding jewellery. “In India, families make wedding jewellery in parts over the years. At the moment, we are in production for pieces for this one particular wedding that will happen in a few years. They are all part of a series. We have delivered a few pieces, and few are still under various stages of design, gemstone-sourcing, and manufacturing.”
Goenka’s daughter, Avanti, recently joined the brand as Managing Director, and is geared up to expand the business. After the launch of their latest London boutique, the team is looking at doing various international private shows and exhibitions.
The pieces stocked in her Mumbai and ‘by appointment only’ London boutique are from the Resort, Prêt, as well as Couture collections. “I constantly keep as many Couture pieces as I can. However, they take me years to make, and I find that they sell the quickest”, she adds. “Internationally, people believe in clean business. They need pieces that are worth their money. Larger pieces are difficult to wear, so most women today need pieces that are easy to wear yet distinct and have an identity.”
Goenka’s upcoming collection would be leaning more towards geometrical patterns rather than the familiar nature- and flower- inspired pieces. “In this day, customers are perpetually searching for something different and unique, yet wearable. My new collection aims to deliver this,” she concludes.